Tradition&Heritage

Mucules 887: Makarska relives the naval battle that shaped its history

September 15, 2026

Makarska Riviera heart
Boat surrounded by pink smoke on the water at night at Makarska Riviera

By the ninth century, the Republic of Venice wanted full control of the Adriatic, and the Croatian coast kept getting in the way. Ships loyal to Croatian duke Domagoj had already made free passage difficult for the Venetians for years. By the 880s, Venice faced a new, increasingly troublesome rival: the Principality of Neretva, known to its neighbors as Neretvani, the Narentines.

This small, independent Croatian principality centered on the Neretva River delta and the surrounding islands, including Mljet, Korčula, Brač, and Hvar. Its sailors and warriors had spent decades raiding Venetian ships and disrupting trade routes, and Venice had little success bringing them under control. Diplomacy hadn’t worked, so Venice began preparing for a confrontation.

The naval battle of September 18th 887

In 887, a newly elected doge, Peter I Candiano, decided to settle the matter once and for all. He assembled a fleet of 12 war galleys, each carrying around 60 armed men, a serious force for the period, and sailed toward what is today the Makarska Riviera.

The fleet arrived off the coast near Tučepi on the morning of September 18th, 887. Candiano struck first, sinking or burning several Neretvani vessels. Confident in his advantage, he pushed further, ordering troops into landing boats to attack ashore as well.

That decision proved fatal. The Neretvani, whose naval strength relied on speed and surprise rather than fleet size, regrouped and struck back hard. What began as a Venetian advantage collapsed into a rout, on both water and land. According to the Venetian chronicler John the Deacon, who recorded the naval battle as Mucules, the Venetian forces were completely broken. Doge Peter I Candiano himself was killed in the fighting, making him the first doge of Venice to die in battle.

The aftermath

The defeat left a lasting mark on Venice’s ambitions. The Republic never again attempted such a direct, large-scale assault on the Neretvani, and for decades afterward, until the early eleventh century, Venice paid an annual tribute, the tributum pacis, to Croatian rulers simply for the right to sail the Adriatic unmolested. Venice’s troubles with the Neretvani didn’t end there. In 948, Peter III Candiano, grandson of the doge killed at Mucules, launched his own campaign against the same principality and suffered a heavy defeat.

A foundation for Croatian naval power

Croatia remembers the Battle of Mucules as a foundational moment for its naval tradition, a status confirmed by a commemorative plaque the city placed on a wall in Makarska in 2003. In 1993, President Franjo Tuđman formally designated September 18th as the Day of the Croatian Navy, specifically in memory of this battle. The date is still marked today, among other ways, through the Maraton lađa, a rowing event held in traditional vessels from Metković to Ploče, in tribute to the Neretvani sailors who made the original victory possible.

This year’s commemoration: stories from the sea

This year, on the 1139th anniversary of the battle, Makarska brings the story back to life with “Mucules 887: Stories from the Sea”, an evening event at Veliki mul that combines history, food, and music, alongside a modern message about the health of the Adriatic.

Reliving the battle

The historical part of the program begins at 7:30 PM, when a procession sets off toward Veliki mul, accompanied by the Makarska City Brass Band and the Karlovac Drummers. Pirates representing Neretva, Omiš, Makarska, and Dubrovnik march alongside historical reenactment groups, setting the scene for what follows.

At 8 PM, the naval battle reenactment takes place on the water itself, in the harbor. The arrival of the Venetian ship, the Neretva vessel, pirates, music, and stage effects recreate the atmosphere of the original confrontation and highlight just how long Makarska’s identity has been tied to the sea.

As part of the day, the Croatian Navy will also mark Croatian Navy Day with a vessel moored in Makarska harbor, open to the public for viewing throughout the day.

A cooking showdown with a bigger message

Before the history takes over, the evening opens at 6:30 PM with a different kind of contest: a cooking showdown between chef Antonio Brajković and local chefs, built entirely around the blue crab.

The blue crab is a non-native, invasive species whose growing presence in the Adriatic threatens native marine life and creates new challenges for local fisheries. Rather than treating it purely as a problem, the event puts it on the plate, with chefs preparing blue crab brudet and blue crab with gnocchi, using the competition to open up a conversation about invasive species, sustainable seafood, and the balance of the marine ecosystem.

Live music to close the evening

After the history and cooking, the evening shifts into celebration. At 8:30 PM, Neno Belan and his band take the stage at Veliki mul for a concert closing out the night.

Practical info

  • Date: Friday, September 18th, 2026. (and the same date each year)
  • Location: Veliki mul, Makarska
  • Program: cooking showdown at 6:30 PM, procession at 7:30 PM, naval battle reenactment at 8 PM, concert by Neno Belan at 8:30 PM. Check out the official program here.
  • Entry: free and open to everyone
  • A Croatian Navy vessel will also be open to the public in Makarska harbor throughout the day

To learn more about other uniquely Makarska traditions, read this.

PHOTO | GABRIELA BAŠIĆ | TZ MAKARSKA