Trekking the Riviera: 5 trails that take you where the karst meets the clouds

If you really want to get to know the Makarska Riviera, you’ve got to get off the main road. Past the busy coast, there’s a maze of old paths, shepherd trails, and nature walks that climb up above the sea, connecting villages that have been linked by foot for centuries before the coastal highway existed.

Trekking here isn’t just about breaking a sweat. It’s about the quiet of the mountain, the smell of wild herbs, and the way sunlight moves across the limestone cliffs. And because the Riviera is compact, stretching from Brela in the north down through Baška Voda, Makarska, Tučepi, Podgora, Igrane, Živogošće, Drvenik, and down to Gradac, most of these trails are within a short drive of wherever you’re staying.

Here are five trekking trails that take you right into the heart of Biokovo.

Archaeological wonders of Makarska Riviera

1. The botanical path — Kotišina, above Makarska

Start with the botanical path in Kotišina, a small settlement tucked into the lower slopes of Biokovo above Makarska. The trail winds through the Biokovo Botanical Garden, one of the few botanical gardens in Croatia set within an active karst landscape, and climbs toward the old Veliki Kaštel fort, built into the cliffs in the 1600s.

Don‘t miss: The medieval church of St. Martin, where the views of Makarska and the offshore islands are, on a clear day, genuinely breathtaking.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate. Suitable for families with older children.

Starting point: Kotišina village, accessible by car from Makarska town centre in under ten minutes. Also convenient from Tučepi and Podgora.

2. The French road — above Brela

Above Brela‘s picture-perfect pebble bays, a piece of 19th-century engineering has been slowly returning to nature: the old Napoleon road, built in 1811 as a military supply route through the mountains.

The path winds toward the famous Nevistina Stina rock formation and passes the Hollow Rock (Šuplja stina), a literal hole through the mountain that frames the islands of Brač and Hvar like a postcard.

Difficulty: Moderate. The old road surface provides steady footing, but some sections are steep.

Best combined with: A swim at one of Brela‘s coves afterward. If you’re staying in Baška Voda, the trailhead is less than five minutes away by car.

Local tip: Set out early; the views from the higher sections are best in morning light, before the coastal haze builds.

3. The Makar–Vošac geological trail — above Makarska

For those who like their hikes with a side of deep time: the trail from Makar takes you across limestone formations 170 million years old, laid down when the Adriatic was still a warm shallow sea, and dinosaurs roamed the land above.

The path climbs steeply to the Vošac peak at 1422 metres, one of the highest accessible viewpoints on the Riviera. On a clear day, the islands of Brač, Hvar, and Korčula appear close enough to touch.

Difficulty: Demanding. This is a serious mountain hike; allow four to five hours return.

Starting point: Makar village, just above Makarska. Also reachable from Tučepi via connecting paths through the lower botanical zone.

Essential: Plenty of water, sturdy footwear, and an early start. Weather on Biokovo changes quickly; the summit can be in the clouds even when the coast is sunny. Check our tips on tackling the mountain!

4. Gradina fortress — Drvenik

At the southern end of the Riviera, the hike to Gradina fortress offers something the longer mountain trails don’t: a window onto the coast as it looked through 15th-century eyes.

The fortress above Drvenik served as a lookout and last line of defence during the Ottoman campaigns. Today it’s a peaceful ruin, with sweeping views over Drvenik’s ferry port, the island of Hvar, and, on a clear day, the tip of Gradac to the south.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The walk is short enough for most fitness levels.

Best combined with: The ferry crossing to Hvar from Drvenik, or a drive south to Gradac and Brist, two of the Riviera’s quietest and most beautiful corners.

Also worth knowing: Drvenik is home to some of the best sea-kayaking launching points on the coast, easy to combine trail and water on the same day.

5. The dynamic trail — Podgora

If you like to keep moving, the trail above Podgora is a Riviera favourite among locals and trail runners alike. It starts by the palm trees on the seafront promenade, one of the liveliest on the coast, and climbs steeply to the famous Seagull‘s Wings monument, an abstract sculpture dedicated to the partisan navy with views straight across to the islands.

What makes it special: The altitude gain is dramatic and the transition rapid; in under an hour you go from salty sea air to rough mountain wind, with the entire Riviera spread below you.

Difficulty: Moderate to demanding. Short but steep.

Best combined with: An evening walk along the Podgora seafront afterward, or a drive to Tučepi, just a few minutes north, for dinner with a view.

Also nearby: The trail connects via mountain paths toward Makarska and Igrane, making it part of a longer traverse for experienced hikers.

Trekking tips

Biokovo is gorgeous, but the mountain doesn’t forgive carelessness. A few essentials:

Water: There are no reliable sources on most trekking trails. Carry more than you think you’ll need.

Footwear: Proper hiking boots or trail shoes; the limestone karst is sharp and uneven.

Timing: Start early. The best light is in the first two hours after sunrise, and the midday heat in summer can be severe above 800m.

Information: These recommendations are for informational purposes; your safety is your priority. Contact the relevant tourist board for more information about trekking in their area.